Letters
The Smoke That Thunders, Heard From the Inside
You hear it first. From the veranda of a hotel in Victoria Falls town, a mile from the gorge, the sound arrives as a low, continuous pressure, like a distant…
The Journal
Author: Waterfall Safari Vacation
The Long Drop
Seven Metres of Nile
The launch leaves Paraa jetty after lunch and pushes upstream for three hours against a river the colour of strong tea. Hippos surface and submerge on either side. Elephants stand…
Field Notes
A Rainbow by Moonlight
A lunar rainbow, or moonbow, forms on the same principle as a daytime rainbow: light refracted through water droplets. The difference is that moonlight is faint, so the bow appears…
Practicalities
Victoria Falls: Zambia or Zimbabwe?
The border between Zambia and Zimbabwe runs down the middle of the Zambezi, so Victoria Falls belongs to both. Roughly three-quarters of the falls are seen best from Zimbabwe; Zambia…
Annals of the River
The Tallest Waterfall in Africa Is Not the One You Think
Ask most travellers to name the highest waterfall in Africa and they will say Victoria Falls. At 108 metres, it is not even close. The title belongs to Tugela Falls…
Practicalities
Why Water Levels Matter More Than Dates
Waterfalls are seasonal, and their seasons rarely line up with the best months for safari. The Zambezi floods long after the rains have ended, because water from the Angolan and…
Wildlife
The Shoebill at the Edge of the Delta
It stands perfectly still in the papyrus, a metre and a half tall, grey as slate, with a bill shaped like a Dutch clog. Then it lunges, collapsing forward onto…
Field Notes
Coffee and Cascades at Materuni
The path to Materuni Falls runs through banana groves and coffee bushes, past Chagga homesteads and across small streams. The falls drop about 80 metres into a cold, fern-lined pool.…
Letters
Where the Kunene Breaks
For two days the road north from Opuwo crosses red mountains and dry riverbeds. Then the land drops toward the Kunene, and suddenly there are palms, baobabs and the sound…
Field Notes
A Waterfall That Falls Into the Sea
Very few rivers end with a waterfall onto a beach. The Lobé, south of Kribi in Cameroon, is one of them. Its falls are low and broad, and fishermen's pirogues…
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